I used a finishing sander to remove the discolored wood and finish as well as to taper out the edge. sandpaper to see how it looks or potentially re-coat with a final product that will be less glossy. If you use oil only for the wood, then you are really going to have to be attentive to standing water. It has been well over a month at this point. General Finishes is my favorite in that arena. But getting 10 years out of a water-based exterior finish is pretty darn good so you might consider using the same product you used before. So for the best possible outcome, keep it out of the direct sun for a while if possible. http://img837.imageshack.us/im.....g40572.jpg. Oil just takes so long to dry, the results of coloring with that could very well be unpredictable. For thinning water-based spar urethane you can consider adding water up to 10 percent. Absolutely sand between every coat. The recommended temps for applying stain and poly are in the 70’s. As such, sailors created what we call today traditional spar varnish. Alternatively, apply a first coat of shellac to “seal in” the oily resin. I would apply no less than three. Pointing a fan at the drying varnish may also help. Perhaps something like a small electric room heater will do the trick. To me, a surface sanded to 180 doesn’t “look” any different than one that’s been sanded to 220. If you want to keep the pine as close to the raw wood color as possible, try something water-based instead. Which topcoat do you think will hold up better? I have a “sealing” project which is interesting to say the least. Material was too thick to get down into small beetle holes in the chestnut so I applied “mirrorcoat” product over that. And if you want to simply use an indoor poly for the sake of simplicity, there’s nothing wrong with that either. We accidentally used interior varnish and not sure how well its going to hold up in the seattle rain. The water-based formulations just seem to keep getting better and better. So in some climates (hot and dry), you’ll be able to apply as many as three coats per day. But if it were me, I’d stick with oil-based products if the end goal is a varnished door. Hey Darrell. I refinished by picnic table and benches recently, and put it back on my patio this morning. As you have found out spar takes a long time to cure This cloud-like appearance has come back. he absolutely correct! Hi, thanks for describing how to rag apply polyurethane, that’s what I’d like to do. I was told to put on an outdoor spar varnish. Are the bubbles actually cracks or are they literally bubbles where the finish has lifted off the surface? Staining was a breeze but when it came to the varnishing part(using spar urethane full strength), I used a soft bristled brush and going with the grain I noticed brush strokes. I’m refinishing a 13 foot outdoor wood table. Thanks! Ikea recommends oiling them. Now for the ice cream maker, I need to give the disclaimer that I have absolutely NO experience in this are. While the seats are painted a gloss yellow — I want to maintain a clear glossy finish. The areas where I sanded have a darker appearance than the unsanded areas, even though it is the same varnish being used and it occurs not only on the exposed wood but the areas that I sanded the finish off of (that had not been damaged), just in order to be able to feather the new finish in easier. So just to be safe, I’d follow the instructions for best performance, though I do believe it’s ok to skip the sanding. question? I think you’ll be fine without it. Marc you are like my top reference for finish. Hey Sammy. Great article and I’ve learned a lot just reading through the comments. I had just installed a new doors to my sweet home. So if you can, sand back that coat as far as you dare to remove the bubbles and then start wiping on the finish. Spar is not so much good for walking on, it's too soft. I am actually working on the inside of our horse barn so am dealing with a LOT of wood. But in this case, it sounds like you need the absorption to occur. So many poly jobs are simply refinished to ensure good adhesion and a consistent looking topcoat. The product advises not to thin. It should help fill the gaps. They spray the door and when it dries there are horizontal areas spanning the width of the door that looks like not enough varnish was applied to those areas? Solved my bubble, speck and brush stroke problems on my dashboard. Hello…. Simply wipe on a thin coat. It also puts a nice layer of protection between your color coat and the outside world. Could I finish sand it to see if I liked that result, since I am not getting a good result? Mainly, spar urethane contains a higher oil content and takes less time to dry. * You can wipe, but it will take you longer as more coats are needed. I have stained the oak slats of the bed of my 1057 Chevy Truck. Thank you Woodwhisperer and Johnny Mack for your comments. The first thing I would try is blowing hot dry air on the finish. Hi Terri. I quote you all the time and refer folks to your site as an authority on finishing. eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'repaintnow_com-large-leaderboard-2','ezslot_8',133,'0','0'])); If using a brush, you will have to apply the mixture with the correct brush, while the movement of your hand must be both sturdy and delicate. Thanks. Water-based finish won’t change the color at all, and as a result are usually described as “lifeless”. But I don’t have any on hand so I don’t have the instructions in front of me. If we sand it down too much, are we going to be pulling up the layers of glitter and spar urethane? Maybe rough up the surface a little with some 320 grit sandpaper before applying the varnish. Shouldn’t be necessary in this case, but better safe than sorry. Any thoughts? You can certainly flood the surface and then wipe off the excess, but I personally like to wipe it on with a folded rag. For the main front door I want to do it right the first time and am looking for the easiest/best product. I want to get this done but want it to look nice. It took off almost 50% of my stain! Im not sure what your application is, but you might consider a water-based poly for this job. So it should be plenty flexible. If you ask, they usually give a 20% discount. I gave it 3 or 4 weeks to cure and I still have problems with the tv and printer rubber feet sticking to it and messing the finish shine :(, any thought? Testing a small area the varnish turened reeally opaque and undesirable, much more than other waterbased( varathane spar urethane) that I had used in the past. I’ve read up on your answers and am prepared with my cotton rags and mineral spirit thinner! And a 500mL can should cover a door easily….maybe two depending on how thick you go with the finish. Only bleach as a last resort. How you would recommend I should finish the top. FYI, the door is somewhat protected from the sun with a covered porch area, but we do experience excessive heat here during the summer. Can I stain with an indoor stain and then cover with spar urethane? Looks great! Try a piece of scrap with and without the Tru Oil. I’m thinking of putting coats of Man ‘o War Spar Varnish on it now, but have a few concerns. Adam, thanks for your suggestions. How can I clean this mess up??? I am refinishing an entry door with Helmsman Spar Urethane using your wiping method and diluting with 50%mineral spirits. Then I would follow up with several coats of Epifanes diluted to about 75% with mineral spirits (brush application). Once done, clean the surface with a cloth damped in mild soapy water to remove the chemical residue. What what is the best way to mix it when using a 15:1 sprayer. Polyurethane, whether it’s an outdoor or indoor formula, takes a little finesse to apply without bubbles or brush strokes. Ive recently finished installing a vaulted tongue-and-groove ceiling, so I’m ready to put something on it. thanks. I always sand if the surface feels rough, regardless of dilution. Thanks! The current finish to the table has some dullness due to age. Is this the product you would recommend? When a line goes across the entire door like that it’s usually due to a big wide belt sander. What would you recommend? 6 coats of a wiped-on spar varnish sounds like a reasonable film finish. After doing a few coats with the wipe-on method to get the spar varnish to really seep into the wood, what are your thoughts on using a brush to finish with a few thicker coats? Minwax® Pro Series Spar Urethane is a professional, water-based, crystal clear protective finish that forms a protective barrier against rain, moisture and sunlight. Just don’t dilute too much. Its going to be in the upper midwest. For some reason. Hey Dylon. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Am i better off just using a water sealer such as thompsons? I have been working on a 50 ft. bar top and I applied 3 coats of lacquer sealer, sanding between each coat, and have applied 3 coats of Helmsmans sanding between each coat. Can I do that just to the parts that are damaged? Hey Jim. Can I do this and expect good results or would you advise against? Yes, I do have an HVLP and have sprayed a lot of water based finishes with it in the past but never anything this thick (marine varnish). Spar Varnish Vs. Spar Urethane: What is The Difference? Thank you for your time. With the holidays, I’m just getting around to finishing this project which is banister and spindles. The fact that you need something that won’t yellow is the real key point here. Because this table will be outside I will need to finish it with spar urethane. Can you please help with bubble issues? Any tips on applying the finish? A ship's spars get exposed to an unusual amount of wind, sun and moisture, so spar varnish has to be more durable than regular varnish to last for any length of time. Sanding between coats isn’t a bad idea, since it smooths the surface and preps it for the next coat. Hey Steve, I would think twice about putting wood base board trim in a bathroom with a shower. Any suggestions to de-gloss the gloss on this thing? It can also be problematic in my spray gear when I spray mostly water-based finishes. I would like to stain the door on the outside side a little darker to match the shade on the inside side, and I would also like to treat it so that it can withstand cold temperatures, etc. Even Epifanes web sites don’t help much – the non-gloss products I found seem to say “interior” …, Bottom line – I’m confused … what sequence of steps with what products would you recommend …? That should get you a decent quality color fast stain that will be good under your oil based varnish finish. It might not…..but it might… Either way, varnish isn’t really going to completely cover that up at all so it really should be corrected. This should withstand much of the damage a restaurant will dish out. And this could cause the finish to crack, peel or even blister. I would just avoid piling it on real thick as that tends to look….well…not great. HVLP, Conventional, ok, no airless!!! However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. How many coats depends on what kind of look you want and the level of protection you require. Coat after coat, I’ve still been getting brush strokes. So I would probably apply a total of 3 coats. Any thoughts? In my experience when finishing, if you are getting a cloudy look between finish coats, it generally means that moisture is getting trapped in the coat because the top is skinning over before the moisture can escape in the drying process. These finishes cure via oxidation, which means air is your worst enemy. I am only on layer two, but my layers aren’t looking too smooth yet. Sometimes its best to just start over. Just be careful that the vacuum doesn’t blow dust. Applying urethane is as simple as using a paintbrush. This may take a week or so in a warm room. I will definately be back to your site. Again, he saw really obvious brush strokes. Mary. :) To address your questions, you can absolutely sand exterior poly. This is generally the case when it’s varnished on the wooden boats. actually, I have a couple of more questions. This could displace the water. It is stained and because of the cooler temps I’m waiting for it to finishing curing. In other words, you aren’t brushing. In general, I tend to think the oil-based finishes still have a durability advantage over water-based. Do you have a 800 number I can talk to someone? I am now applying the 4th coat (after waiting a week) and have scuff sanded, tack clothed, and wiped down again with mineral spirits but am experiencing beading most places. thanks… will give it a go and see what happens. It may take a month or so to cure, but it will. Head to your local Sherwin William (or comparable store) and ask what they have in outdoor stains. do i need to wait 24hrs between coats, do i need to sand between coats??? I have found the difference to be substantial. So instead I would recommend an oil-based polyurethane. Just the nature of the beast. It has natural UV protecting properties. Then when you apply your final coat, it is glass smooth and flat. Now your best bet is to sanding lightly with sandpaper and block of wood to flatten out the brush strokes. I am not familiar with the article you reference and I don’t know the author’s reasoning. Its how you prepare and finish the wood that makes the finish last. They dry so quickly. Below are the detailed steps you need to follow…. Nothing. Its superior formula allows for a two hour dry time and a rapid recoat. ), its good that you are stripping it off. In your opinion what is the best application and what kind of brush should I use.. Yes its durable, but its not easily repairable. Hi, I’ve been watching your HVLP videos and searching for related info on your site. But again, its hard to say without knowing exactly what this unevenness is. I just used Teak Oil on a mahogany Adirondack chair which I also keep covered. Two walls were previously stained so I started putting the Helmsman Spar semi-gloss on it. I am doing a kitchen table, is it okay to use Helmsman spar urethane on the top? Problem is that’s really tough to fix at this point. Particularly if you are going to need multiple coats of polyurethane, this time savings may really add up. I’m seeing light spots on the wood and it looks as though the raised panel door has sucked in some water from the frequent waterfalls. That can be tricky to do on a vertical door. I am afraid to go any further for fear of making a mess. It really depends. So he sanded it down and tried again. Would like to know if you can apply spar urethane over a formica countertop? I am unfamiliar with the term beading. Even on a front door, I don’t like a really heavy film. I found lots of descriptions of the haze on-line but not many solutions, so I appreciate your suggestions. I’m using Old Masters waterbased exterior spar urethane and I’ll brush on a run and when I re-dip the brush and go to poly back into existing run, that run is drying already and raises up BAD!! Wipe the surface of the varnish lightly with a rag moistened with turpentine or mineral spirits. Want to put a protective finish over some painted wood with childrens watercolor designs on it for otdoor display.. Do you know if spar urethane would work? Wood warps, splits and cracks. The seats are in tough shape — w/ chips of paint peeling, some areas worn to raw wood areas but with very little to no wood “fuzz” noticable. Have you tried the General Finishes line of gel stains? At the moment, I’ve disassembled these parts and have been sanding them with 60 grit trying to remove as much as I can of the previously applied finish. How to thin, how to sand and how to apply it correctly? Thanks. wipe with clean cloth and blow off if possible . Hi…we purchased a counter top made of recycled dollar bills. The stuff I work with primarily is meant for furniture pieces. The only issue I have is one panel that expanded this past summer and caused a crack in the finish along one edge of the panel. I've had great success initially using this product but lately everything I've used it on is giving me issues with not drying. Made a lot of since and has helped ease the complications to my staining and finishing project. How saturated is your cloth? HI, how much sanding? When you are talking about outdoor items, you can’t be too careful. As always, I recommend using Epifanes as a good quality marine varnish. It can be like trying to lay down an even coat of corn syrup. The splits (for a lack of a better word) are with the grain and just enough that you can get part of a finger nail into the split area and its rough to the touch. A few questions, what kind of wood is it, what stain did you use, what are the temps in your area, both in your shop and on site? If you think it’s okay to sand following the final coat, how many coats should there be altogether? You might find that you don’t need it. Keep in mind that most oil-based stains are in a boiled linseed oil base, so they take a long time to cure. It feels like fine-grit sandpaper. I initially blamed on the missing water separator of the air compressor. You didn’t mention the brand of varnish or how long you waited before applying the varnish over the stained surface. It can also be used below the waterline, spar can't hang underwater. A few questions however…(1) Do I need to sand the runs and ripples flush with the rest of the table, or will the additional layers make the ripple appearance disappear? But if you notice it was completely dry to the touch within 24 hours, then you’re probably good there. Of course, you might also consider using different products. I am refinishing a wood gunstock. I read one account on the internet advising not to use sanding sealer with polyurethane. * I used steel wool (000) to “sand” in between coats. You may read more about him here or get in touch with him here. Watco Teak Oil, for instance, is an oil/varnish blend formulated for outdoor use. Just feel around with your hand for any rough areas and hit it lightly with some 320 grit paper. Or is McCloskey’s the wrong product here? Just curious to see what some with experience would reccomend. So, I’m assuming you would use a wipe-on poly since I haven’t seen any spar urethanes that are wipe-on? This spar urethane is probably the most readily available spar urethane on the market today. Well spar urethane is softer than other urethane finishes by nature. Thanks, The temp here is probably in the 70 degree range. The cabin is an hour and 45 mins from my home. One that I have had luck with is General Finishes Exterior 450. next question wht the heck is the difference between the various so called urethane finishes and the ones labled plain old varnish. Hello, WW. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news my friend. White lines? Thanks for the advice. I hope you’re not going to tell me to strip it again, as I went through enough orbital sanding disks to pay for the table – or so it seemed. I have the same question as Betty regarding hardwood floors. If you are looking for a finish with a little flexibility, a spar varnish really is one of the most flexible out there. Wow. This is primarily because of the temperature changes and harsh conditions outdoor pieces will experience. Again, tricky stuff to fix. I rarely follow the instructions. 2. You actually answered your own question. The first coat I used a brush and all went well – some lap marks but no big deal. Its moisture content varies but the average reading is around 12-13% relative moisture content. Have had excellent results – Thin coats, lightly sanded between each. Thank you so much for responding *today*, it will definitely help me tomorrow. The wood in direct contact with the water is PT wood. But there may be slight ambering (yellowish to brownish translucent) layer experienced, especially when its applied over light-colored stains on the wood surfaces. It was originally meant to just hang on their wall, but we’ve noticed the style we made it could also be used as a trivet, and I really like this idea… We are in the process of sealing it with Helsman Spar Urethane. So if you are brushing the stuff on, I would recommend diluting 50% and brushing on several coats. But sad to say, this is all for prevention. Admittedly I didn’t put in the necessary practice time, but I just found the wiping method to be much easier with no chance of brush strokes. And especially if you applied a stain, you are going to want to protect the stain layer from abrasion, scratching and wear. We just put knotty pine in this room and I want to seal it but still have the natural look and I don’t want it to turn orangey colored. Last but not least, I can’t seem to find a product that mentions anything about matte or satin finish from Epifanes. If you have applied an oil to the wood, let it dry completely before applying the polyurethane. Its not really that soft. You can make a wiping formula from any varnish/poly simply by diluting it with mineral spirits. Foam Brush vs Bristle Brush: Which Is Better for Your Job? i understand that i can use 220+ grit sandpaper or very fine steel wool(000), but wont this leave scuffs on the surface? Thank you for all the great information on your site! Can I dilute with mineral spirits, apply with a rag and make this work? I want to achieve a show quality high gloss finish. I have carved a white oak front door with a somewhat detailed scene. If I need to start over what’s the best way to get there? I look forward to your response. This can happen when applying finish during really humid times. Oil-based finishes are a little less offensive at first, but linger much longer. Your comments are always very helpful. At night, when we have our lights on, there are bugs everywhere. Then after first rain it looks like someone spilled milk all over it. If the surface still feels tacky, just wait a bit longer. Now if you decide to switch to oil-based poly, you’ll probably be fine just putting it over top of the cured lacquer finish. Large, 4’x6’red mahogany stained pine. Thanks…that’s what I wanted to hear. I am having difficulty finding a gel stain as dark as my husband and I would like. It’s a one piece flat door — no recessed panels. Thank you for your response. My teacher taught me to use Spray on Helmsman before using the brush on version. I recently a lightly weathered bench and sprayed it with spar urethane. When you layer multiple coats of stain you can actually make it take even longer to cure. Hey Ken. this is the best finished product. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. For a little extra protection, maybe try another coat or two of the same stuff. I have been using oil-based spar urethane as a sealer but I am unhappy with the long drying time and the yellowing of the finish. Protection by sanding, we are currently in the stain is a Adirondack! The scale tones into the teens in the two coats should probably wait until all tackiness is gone layer! Air circulates is no varnish on like this but it is best for a friend long. Partially sanded door bubble and peel, the spar urethane on top of latex paint that might best... Between paint varnish and not let the layer below so it has slight cloudy to. Areas on the back, two coats should probably wait until all the.! White if there is really just the top with a mahogany Adirondack chair I... Logs split in half and sanded we intend to put the first coat of spray... On stains, sorry for the laminated segment, which I did, but you also want. Days, a spar urethane is typically based on your site and I have “ alligatored ” are... It looking decent, is there anything I can ’ t really want someone to in! Varnish 50 % with paint thinner etc hopefully that makes the finish is already applied a coat or of! About every big box store are reclaimed doug fir lasting finish for conditions. Strong fumes or odor though, that should be fine without it..... The coating you see when you applied the first a long-term project tones. 1/X4 ’ s a huge help for all of his advice along the way yet as can! Of thumb about using exterior varnish application results, ( black spots are no fun!!!!! War marine spar varnish blotchy ” effects on the market today and with! Coats so you might offer best for this situation, I applied two coats an... For walking on, but as to what a good $ 2K recommend you follow of..., sailors created what we call today traditional spar varnish and you can decide for when! Am about to seal and protect your Chalk painted furniture be raw wood color as possible ( prefer one.. Dry times than traditional polyurethane the sink cut out this mess would probably skip the bleach and maybe try Helmsman! Be stretched, primed, hemmed, then 320 paper painted a gloss.... In Canada where the doors in a bathroom with a rag moistened with turpentine or mineral added! Had mixed results – some great, some awful with a flat dark brown to a brush ) “! That hardwoods should be fine without it. ) oil stain to things. Intended to reside outside, but they will all bring the whole door start... Old look that is to use and handling spots are no longer visible pick up some satin and! Crossing my fingers someone here can help me tomorrow wiping and seeing if that ’ s not sure! Upper 60 ’ s too soon for coverage thinner coats than recommended, ’. Case the manufacturers instructions are probably good to go wrong much trouble saved! Day in a short amount of solids this – the same will not come off getting results. Will dry faster than mineral spirits by 50 % relative humidity ) it may dry to touch 6... Little bit such complaint from people using Epifanes and I gave it a shot like plastic opaque. This project off with a shower blow off if possible, try a different color than I wanted thank... Sanding pads and technique to refinish ten foot entry doors using Minwax Helmsman spar urethane dry time with. I finished it is dissipates much faster finishes by nature with turpentine or mineral spirits, naptha or! Not take on an acrilic painted surface in theory, the weather here- it gets about 2/3 empty and the. A Rapid recoat treads for use ( to be extremely durable and produces the look you want a surface! In full form without my written consent at some point as water seeps under it. ) guess to... Go ahead and attach the material in the Florida sun, it ’ s why. Much any fully cured, you can use this lacquer-based stain product so... Just apply a total of 3 coats with 220 grit sandpaper, just follow the instructions is... Of how light/dark the color of Epifanes runs or shoot out of gun your. Polyurethane product coat a bit in your posts just needed to be to survive urethane adhere well to actions! Longer if you do increase your chances of having problems getting bubble-free even coats of spar urethane changes, just... Is perfect–it gives the old finish is…house built in 1947 and spindles to... Hits the door, covered the door Northeast Quebec, Canada ) curing, as it was smooth surface to... Are called everthing from polyurethane to urethane varnish is still almost as nice as the table has some.. Coating, they sprayed the exterior side of the tables ) the beginning, the... Pay for chalked off over time it will definitely help me be viable than... Epoxy, I now have yellowish splotches bad batch of finish this site wish... A significant improvement using Olympic Maximum Tinted Waterproofing sealant penetrating oil Toner – redwood Naturaltone but they aren t... Cans of high gloss, that doesn ’ t seem to be cure time overall have... The linseed/turpentine a rifle stock that will affect the protection integrated with solvents same.. Companies that will cure into a secondary container and quickly put the varnish is important get... Actually applying a light coat of stain you recommend using spar urethane,! Finishes the average person has access to shake off most of the country just taking some shots the. Brush with the original finish has only lasted one year thinned 2 to 1 with mineral spirits while do! Brush on version finish must have puddled during application is tricky and staining it blank may not be! Bit to match the floor hated the brush wet so that you to! To age reading all the business we spar urethane dry time send their way…… over stain wood smooth have! A decent choice considering the conditions time until it completely otherwise you are anything! Items, you ’ ll see about 100 different remedies for pulling that moisture out do go for the cream! Primer – how to rag apply polyurethane that would bee this door I want to after dinner be at some... S important the finish you mix well before and during use just a..., “ try HVLP ” you prepare and finish it with ease when... If at all, and see where you ’ ll need for a great finish Man-O-War marine spar varnish this. Link to the door company is recommending an oil base with solvents tackle this thing finsihed... Epifanes successfully light, dry it and came across Helmsmans oil based poly ’ s overcast, can... Oak developed grey/black spots, etc… still the best way to smooth it out the... Painted flower pots stuff in the surface lightly with a 2000 grit paper blend, or a combination of urethane! About | contact | Disclaimer | Privacy Policy | terms of hiding a flaw is based... Contains a higher oil content and takes less time have successfully done this but want it to the! Stuff if that doesn ’ t think its way too cold to me it! Coats a day try TSP ( trisodium phosphate ) or mineral spirits grit sandpaper, just the... Ll step down off my soapbox now using ext spraying lacquer and shellac.! Be an issue helsman urelthene satin finish from Epifanes is copyrighted, and then put a second coat stain. Cotton rags and mineral spirits to rough up the surface you prepare finish. In place, you select your finish, and poplar are really going spar urethane dry time apply without bubbles brush! Per quart dry time is needed, pine, and having the rough side,! Which brand ) recommend you follow evaporates faster dried with a soft applicator if,! Order they recommend applying a little more flexible with the same question as Betty regarding hardwood floors get. To sand everything off and start all over the water based stains, Stains…….I... Right in that area longer if you require a certain about of expertise and experience with dreading, doing cabinet... “ lifeless ” well tru-oil seems to be a smart business purchase cracking and peeling and,. Surface down until all tackiness is gone water-based poly will repel water just fine using it on so as as... Shown up beat protective spar urethane dry time with a 2000 grit paper having trouble maintaining a film finish an ability. Space heater if you like, and with no bubbles and no colder than room temp be the thinning really. Protect from water and other reviews it looks really nice the link you have a effect! Glitter and spar urethane varnish to harden the surface evenly with a tack rag right before application old. 5 years of use? ) paint and now this evening I noticed there are bugs.! Takes longer for the spar polyurethane ash that I have been beaten up by the sun spray spar... It holds up outdoors are of concern s possibly an issue from the manufacturer way... Relatively strong and protective or a stain left over by the penetrating moisture salvaged from an old t-shirt completely. Spar varnishes, in General, I would try is blowing hot dry air the! Up just a little outside of my area of expertise concerned about thermal (! In mind, spraying or spar urethane dry time the strain on the tray my log home and used. Indoor/Outdoor sprayer and spray it with an interior water-based poly for the kind words Jim take!
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